March 1945, Ewima.

The battle had lasted 36 days.

6,800 Americans were dead.

More Marines died on that island than in any other engagement in the entire history of the United States Marine Corps.

When the last shot was fired, American officers began accounting for everything.

They wanted the body of the Japanese general who had commanded the defense, the man responsible for 36 days of hell on 8 square miles of volcanic rock.

They never found him, not because he escaped.

He had removed every rank insignia from his uniform before leading his last 300 men into the darkness.

His remains lie somewhere on that island to this day.

Nobody knows exactly where.

General Holland Smith, who commanded the entire expeditionary force at Ewima and had been fighting the Japanese since Guadal Canal, said after the war, “Of all our adversaries in the Pacific, Kurabayashi was the most redoubtable.

Not the most dangerous at Ioima, the most dangerous of the entire war.

” But this isn’t a story about Euoima.

This is a story about what Americans found after the battle was over and about the family of that man in Tokyo, 7,000 mi from an island that wasn’t even on their map and how they survived after he didn’t come home.

His name was Tadamichi Kuribayashi.

To the Americans in 1945, it was just another Japanese name that nobody could pronounce.

Nobody in Washington knew who he was before the battle started.

No significant intelligence file.

No special warning from Pacific Command about the general they’d sent to Euoima.

That was the first American mistake.

Kuri Bayashi was born in 1891 in Nagano in the mountains of central Japan.

His family were samurai several generations back at least.

By the time he came along, that heritage didn’t mean much.

His father worked construction to keep the family fed.

Kuribayashi grew up wanting to be a journalist.

Instead, he joined the army.

It was the most practical path available to a young man with no money and no connections in early 20th century Japan.

He was a good student, exceptionally good in English.

In 1928, the Japanese military sent him to Washington as an atache.

For two years, he traveled across the United States, Detroit, Pittsburgh, Chicago, New York.

He visited the Ford plant.

He watched steel mills running around the clock.

He counted ships in harbor.

He wrote everything down with the careful eye of an officer trained to measure an enemy’s capacity for war.

None of what he observed was secret, but the conclusion he drew was something nobody in Tokyo wanted to hear.

He came back and said it plainly.

If Japan went to war with the United States in a long campaign, Japan would lose, not might lose, would lose.

He wasn’t the only one saying it.

Admiral Yamamoto, who had studied at Harvard and also served as an ataché in Washington, made the same warning to military leadership.

Both men were ignored.

What made Kurabayashi different from most Japanese officers who passed through Washington was that he didn’t just observe America professionally.

He appears to have genuinely liked the country.

He had American friends.

He went to horse races.

He ate in the same diners and roadside lunch counters that ordinary Americans used.

He wrote home about the openness of American people, how strangers would strike up conversations, how a man could walk into a room full of people he’d never met and leave with invitations for dinner.

He understood that what made America powerful wasn’t just the steel mills and the shipyards.

It was the people inside them.

And that understanding made the war when it came feel to him like something close to personal grief.

But here is the detail that separates him from every other officer who passed through Washington.

In the evenings, alone in his hotel room, he wrote letters home to his son.

Taro was 3 years old and couldn’t read yet.

So Kuribi Bayashi drew pictures.

He drew the Manhattan skyline the way it looked from the street below.

skyscrapers he had walked past that afternoon.

He drew automobiles parked along Michigan Avenue in Chicago.

He drew American families eating dinner, children playing in front yards, factory workers on their lunch break.

Every letter was a page of handdrawn illustrations, a future general sending picture books home to a toddler who would someday inherit them without fully understanding what they meant.

Those letters still exist.

They were published after the war under the title picture letters from the commanderin-chief.

Anyone can read them today.

What they show is a man who wasn’t studying America from the outside.

He had walked those streets, eaten in those diners.

He understood the country in a way that very few of his contemporaries ever would.

And that understanding is what made what came next so unbearable for him to watch.

13 years later, on the morning of December 7th, 1941, Japanese pilots flew toward Pearl Harbor.

Kuri Bayashi read the news.

He said nothing to his wife.

He didn’t need to.

Yoshi looked at his face and understood.

June 1944, Tokyo.

Kuribi Bayashi received his orders.

He was going to Ewima.

He knew it was a death sentence.

Before he left the house, he said one thing to Yoshi.

This time, I probably won’t even be able to send my bones home.

She didn’t answer.

She turned and walked to the kitchen.

That morning, she cooked red rice and salted herring.

In Japan, red rice is a celebration dish.

You make it for good news, for homecomings, for victory.

She wasn’t making it for any of those reasons.

She made it because it was his favorite.

It was all she could do.

There were three children in the house.

Taro, 19, already old enough to be drafted.

Yoko, 15, and Takaco, the youngest, 9 years old, the one he called Takochan in his letters.

Before he walked out the door, Kurabayashi wrote to Kako a short note.

Listen to your mother.

Grow up fast and strong.

That’s all your father asks.

No promise that he’d return.

No, I’ll miss you.

Just a father trying to tell a 9-year-old girl without being able to say it directly that he wasn’t coming back and that the only thing he wanted was for her to live well without him.

He walked out the door.

He didn’t look back.

That was the detail Takaco carried with her until the end of her life.

That her father walked out that door and never once turned around.

Not because he was cold, because he knew if he turned around, he wouldn’t be able to leave.

A family of five.

Red rice and salted herring.

One short note to a 9-year-old girl.

That was all that was left of that morning.

The Marines landed on Ewima on February 19th, 1945.

For the first 5 minutes, nothing happened.

The Navy had bombarded the island continuously for 3 days before the landing.

By every calculation, nothing could have survived.

But when the first wave hit the beach, the island was completely silent.

The men looked at each other.

Nobody understood what was going on.

Then hell opened up.

Kuribayashi had built 18 mi of tunnels beneath the island, cut 30 ft into the rock, connected into a network that naval guns and aerial bombing couldn’t reach.

He had forbidden every Japanese soldier on the island from conducting banzai charges, the mass suicide attacks the Japanese used everywhere else in the Pacific.

He considered them a waste.

He wanted every man to fight from underground one inch at a time until the very last soldier was gone.

Marines who had been at Terawa knew what a banzai charge looked like.

Marines who had been at Saipan knew what a Japanese defensive line looked like.

Nobody knew how to deal with an enemy you couldn’t see, couldn’t draw out, couldn’t find.

one that fired from ventilation holes the size of a fist and then disappeared back into the earth.

On day one, they advanced a few hundred yards.

On day two, less than that.

On day five, the day the whole island was supposed to be secured, they were still dying in the tunnels one inch at a time.

On February 23rd, 4 days after the landing, six Marines climbed to the top of Mount Surabachi and raised the flag.

Joe Rosenthal was there with a camera.

The photograph he took that afternoon became the most famous image of the entire Pacific War.

Pulitzer Prize cast in bronze in Washington on the cover of every magazine in America.

But when that flag went up on Suribachi, Kuribayashi was still alive, still commanding from underground on the northern end of the island.

20 more days of fighting ahead of him, and he knew it.

36 days, each one the same.

On March 26th, Kuri Bayashi led the roughly 300 men still standing, all that remained of 21,000 defenders, in one final night attack.

Before he left the command post, he stripped every rank insignia from his uniform.

Nobody knows why.

In the days after the guns went quiet, American troops began clearing the tunnel network on the island’s northern end where Kuribayashi had established his final headquarters.

That’s where they found Master Sergeant Tao Sakai.

Sakai had handled coded communications for Kuri Bayashi and was one of the very few people from the command staff still breathing.

He was hiding among ammunition crates, not in uniform, holding a surrender leaflet in both hands.

Captain Fiorenzo Leardo took him in.

Leardo had studied languages at Notraam.

He tried German, tried Italian, tried Spanish.

Sakai shook his head each time.

Then Sakai looked at him and asked, “Parle Vu France?” They sat down in a shell crater and talked in French.

Sakai told Leardo about Kuribi Bayashi, about the months on the island, about the final night, and about the letters.

Dozens of handwritten letters found in the tunnels.

Not military documents, not operational orders, personal letters.

Some of them had handdrawn illustrations, buildings, automobiles, city streets.

A soldier from Ohio looked at those drawings and recognized them immediately.

That was New York.

That was Chicago, Sakai explained.

Kuri Bayashi had walked those streets, sat in those restaurants, and in the evenings in hotel rooms in American cities, he had drawn pictures of what he saw to send home to a son who was too young to read.

Before Sakai was transferred up the chain of command to be debriefed further by regimental Japanese language officers Richard White and John Mlan, he reached into his shirt and handed Leardo two photographs, one of himself with his wife, one with his young daughter.

I know they will take these from me, Sakai said in French.

I want you to keep them.

Then he said, I am already dead.

I can never go home.

Leardo kept those photographs for the rest of his life.

After the war, he went to Harvard Law School and became a superior court judge in California.

But he never stopped thinking about the man in the shell crater.

He died in 2004, still searching for Sakai’s family, still trying to return the photographs.

That same year in Tokyo, Takaco, the 9-year-old who had watched her father walk out the door without looking back, also died.

They never knew each other.

But in 2004, both of them were gone, each carrying the memory of the same man.

Word of Kuri Bayashi’s death reached Tokyo in the spring of 1945.

There was no state funeral, no government delegation at the door.

Japan in 1945 was collapsing too fast to account for every soldier’s family.

Most of Tokyo had already been burned to the ground by Lame’s B29s in March.

Food was scarce.

People lined up before dawn for whatever was left.

And Yoshi, the widow of the general who had just died on Ewima, stood in those lines like everyone else.

She was 41 years old, a widow, three children, and she had never worked a day in her life.

That wasn’t laziness.

That was the reality for officers wives in Japan at the time.

A general’s wife did not take outside work.

Her husband served.

She managed the household.

That was the arrangement.

There were no exceptions.

Then her husband didn’t come back and that arrangement didn’t feed three children.

Yoshi went out and sold dried squid in the street.

That’s not a metaphor.

She stood in the market and sold dried squid to buy rice.

That’s what her daughter described decades later in plain language with no particular emotion.

When Japan surrendered in August 1945, American soldiers appeared on the streets of Tokyo within weeks.

Jeeps rolled through neighborhoods that the B29s hadn’t reached.

American servicemen bought goods at the markets, ate at the stalls, stood around taking photographs of the ruins.

Yoshi, the widow of the man who had spent 36 days trying to kill those same men, lived in the same city with them, stood in the same market lines.

She left no record of what that felt like.

The American occupation of Japan lasted until 1952.

7 years General Douglas MacArthur ran the country from an office building in central Tokyo.

American policy dismantled Japan’s military, rewrote its constitution, restructured its economy.

For the families of Japanese officers, men who had fought and died for a government that no longer existed, those years were not easy to navigate.

There was no framework for what they were supposed to feel.

Their country had told them their husbands and fathers had died for something sacred.

The Americans arrived and told Japan that everything it had believed was wrong.

Yoshi didn’t have time to process any of that.

She had three children to feed.

She just kept doing what needed to be done, and she put all three of her children through college.

In Japan in the 1950s, that was not a given, especially for a daughter.

Most families of that era only sent their sons to university.

girls finished high school and got married.

Yoshi didn’t see it that way.

Takochan went to university the same as her brother.

Yoshi lived to be 98 years old.

She died in 2003, nearly 60 years as a widow.

No grave to visit, no island close enough to reach.

But before she died, she went.

She flew to Euoima and [clears throat] stood on the black volcanic ground where her husband had died six decades earlier.

No headstone, no marker with his name, just the island and the Pacific Ocean and the wind.

She didn’t leave any account of what she said or thought or felt standing there.

In 2003, a Japanese writer named Kumio Kakahashi began researching Kuribi Bayashi.

She wanted to write about the real man behind the battle, not the general, not the tactics, but the person who had written letters home from that island.

She tracked down the family.

She read through hundreds of letters and she sat with Takaco, now nearly 70 years old, and read aloud what Tako’s father had written in his final months on Ewima.

In a letter to Takaco from September 1944, Kurabayashi had written, “Mind your mother.

Grow up quickly.

That’s what makes your father happy.

I think of you always.

” When Kakahashi finished reading, she looked at Takaco and said, “He was thinking of you right up until the end.

” Takaco didn’t cry.

She sat still for a moment.

Then she said, “Yes.

” And because of him, I’ve had a very happy life.

That was all.

No explanation, no elaboration, just one sentence from a woman approaching 70, looking back across a lifetime of growing up without a father and finding something there that wasn’t lost.

Takacoako died in 2004.

Kakehashi’s book, So Sad to Fall in Battle, found its way to Clint Eastwood in 2005.

Eastwood read it and decided to make a war film in a way Hollywood had never attempted.

Tell the entire story from the Japanese side in Japanese with Japanese actors.

He called it Letters from Ewima.

In 2006, it was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Picture, the only film about the Pacific War told entirely from the enemy’s perspective to ever receive that recognition.

To prepare for the film, Eastwood’s production team contacted the Kuri Bayashi family directly.

Actor Ken Watanabe, who played Kuri Bayashi in the film, was given access to the actual letters, the same letters Kakahashi had read to Takaco.

He read them before every day of shooting.

In interviews, Watanabe said he felt he was carrying something that didn’t belong to him, something he had to handle carefully.

For the first time in decades, the name Kuri Bayashi was being spoken openly in Japan, not as a defeat to be forgotten, but as a story worth telling.

Japanese newspapers ran features about the family.

Television programs revisited the battle.

A man who had been buried in national silence for 60 years was suddenly everywhere and the grandson by then a politician was asked to answer publicly the question his family had kept quiet for 60 years.

Yoshi Taka Shindo was born in 1958 Tako’s son.

He grew up in Kawaguchi Saitama, an ordinary industrial city outside Tokyo.

His father was a civil servant.

His mother taught school.

A normal middleclass post-war Japanese family.

And nobody in that family ever mentioned his grandfather.

Not out of shame, but because in Japan in the 1960s and 70s, Eoima was a wound people didn’t touch.

It was a defeat.

21,000 Japanese dead on an island that didn’t stop the Americans from reaching Tokyo.

There was nothing to celebrate.

The country wanted to move forward, rebuild, join the modern world.

The war was a chapter that had closed.

Shindo went to Maji University, studied law, graduated in 1981.

He went to work for the city government of Kawaguchi.

In 1991, he won a seat on the city council.

In 1996, he was elected to the national diet for the first time, representing Saitama’s second district under the Liberal Democratic Party.

His colleagues knew who he was, but he rarely mentioned his grandfather in professional settings.

In 2006, when letters from Ewima opened worldwide, the international press started looking for the family.

Shindo, by then a senior member of the diet, had to answer questions about his grandfather in public for the first time.

In 2015, for the 75th anniversary of the battle, he traveled to Ewima for the joint American Japanese memorial service.

He stood on the same black volcanic ground where his grandfather had died.

Around him were American veterans, men in their 80s and 90s, some of them the last surviving Marines who had fought there.

They had come back to the island that had taken so much from them.

So had he.

Later that year, he sat down with Reuters.

He said, “When I was a child, my family almost never mentioned my grandfather.

For the Japanese, it was a painful defeat that people wanted to forget.

” Takaco’s son, sitting in front of international cameras, saying that he grew up not knowing who his grandfather was.

Think about what that means for a moment.

The man that Holland Smith called the most dangerous enemy the United States faced in the entire Pacific War.

His own grandson grew up in the same city as his grave and didn’t know his name.

The silence in that family wasn’t denial.

It was the silence of people trying to survive in a country that had no language yet for what they had lost and what it had meant.

In 2012, Shindo was appointed Minister of Internal Affairs and Communications under Prime Minister Shinszo Abe.

Later, Minister of State for Economic and Fiscal Policy under Prime Minister Kishida.

Nine times elected to the House of Representatives.

But Shindo’s story isn’t as clean as Manfred Raml’s, the son who became mayor of Stuttgart, received the Jerusalem medal and built close friendships with the sons of Patton and Montgomery as symbols of European reconciliation.

Shindo is a more complicated figure.

He has made repeated visits to Yasukuni Shrine, the memorial that honors Japan’s war dead, including men convicted of war crimes, drawing protests from China and South Korea each time he goes.

Kuribayashi’s grandson is not a simple answer to the question of what war leaves behind.

History doesn’t move in straight lines.

From a father drawing pictures in a Chicago hotel room to a grandson sitting in the Japanese cabinet.

Something was passed down and something was not.

Something changed and something didn’t.

The grandson of the man who died with no grave on Eoima, serving in the cabinet of a democratic Japan, America’s closest ally in Asia.

That much is true.

The rest is a question every person has to answer for themselves.

Ewima today is Japanese territory.

The Japan self-defense forces operate a naval air base there.

A military built under American supervision after the war.

Now one of Washington’s most important partners in the Pacific.

No civilians, no tourists.

The island is effectively closed to the outside world.

Once a year, American and Japanese veterans gather there for a joint memorial service.

Old men, fewer every year, standing on black volcanic ground, looking out at the ocean.

No guns, no speeches, just wind and silence.

Those ceremonies began in 1985, 40 years after the battle.

American Marines and Japanese veterans standing on the same ground where they had tried to kill each other.

Some of them had never spoken to a Japanese person since the war.

Some of the Japanese had never spoken to an American.

They stood together anyway because it turned out that the only people who fully understood what had happened on that island were the ones who had been there.

Kuribayashi’s remains are still somewhere beneath that island.

80 years, never found, no grave.

The Japanese government has made periodic efforts to locate and identify the remains of soldiers buried on Ewima.

Kuri Bayashi is among those still unaccounted for.

The man who drew pictures of Chicago for his son, who wrote to a 9-year-old girl telling her to grow up fast and strong.

He has no resting place that anyone can visit.

Yoshi sold dried squid in the street and raised three children and lived to be 98.

Takacoako grew up and said, “Because of him, I’ve had a very happy life.

” Shindo stood on Ewima in 2015, surrounded by American veterans, and answered publicly for the first time about the grandfather his family had kept silent for 60 years.

In 1928, Kuribayashi sat alone in a hotel room in Chicago and drew pictures to send home to his son.

He had seen America, the factories, the ships, the streets, and he knew Japan could not win that war.

He went anyway.

There is a Japanese concept giri that roughly translates to duty or obligation.

But the English word duty doesn’t quite capture it.

Giri is more personal than that.

It’s the weight of what you owe to the people and institutions that shaped you.

Even when honoring that weight costs you everything, Kuribayashi had spent 2 years in America genuinely admiring the country.

He knew what Japan was walking into and he went anyway because the alternative to refuse to walk away from what was being asked of him was something he couldn’t bring himself to do.

Whether that makes him admirable or tragic is a question every person answers differently.

The question isn’t why he went.

The question is, a man who knew how it would end, who drew pictures of American streets to send home to his children, who stripped his rank insignia and led 300 men into the dark.

What was he thinking in that final night? Nobody knows.

His body was never found.

And the letters from Ewima, people are still reading them 80 years later.